Kanas and Hemu are the postcard corners of the Altai: a glacial lake, a wooden village, and birch forest that turns gold in October.
This 5-day loop covers Urumqi to Altai (Burqin) to Kanas to Hemu and back, about 1100 km in total. The sweet spot is Late September to mid-October for autumn; July for green.
Why drive this route
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This short loop keeps daily driving low so you can actually spend time at the lake and the village rather than living on the road. If you are shaping the bigger trip, our Kanas Lake guide covers the wider picture.
The route day by day
Day 1: Urumqi to Burqin (650 km, ~8 h)
Day 1 leaves Urumqi and reaches Burqin, roughly 650 km and about 8 hours behind the wheel. You will sleep in Burqin. On the way: long highway push north into the Altai; stock up on supplies. Break the drive; it is a full day.
Day 2: Burqin to Kanas scenic area (150 km, ~3 h)
Day 2 leaves Burqin and reaches Kanas scenic area, roughly 150 km and about 3 hours behind the wheel. You will sleep in Kanas village. On the way: enter the Kanas reserve; lake viewpoint and boardwalk. A park shuttle handles the inner area; park the car at the gate.
Day 3: Kanas to Hemu village (60 km, ~2 h)
Day 3 leaves Kanas and reaches Hemu village, roughly 60 km and about 2 hours behind the wheel. You will sleep in Hemu. On the way: wooden Hemu village; morning mist over the river. Hemu gets cold at night even in summer.
Day 4: Hemu to Burqin (210 km, ~4 h)
Day 4 leaves Hemu and reaches Burqin, roughly 210 km and about 4 hours behind the wheel. You will sleep in Burqin. On the way: return south; relax in town. Refuel in Burqin.
Day 5: Burqin to Urumqi (650 km, ~8 h)
Day 5 leaves Burqin and reaches Urumqi, roughly 650 km and about 8 hours behind the wheel. You will sleep in . On the way: long return drive. Start early.
Where to sleep
- Burqin (2 nights)
- Kanas village (1)
- Hemu (1)
Best time to drive
Late September to mid-October is the famous golden season, but it is also the busiest and coldest at night. July is green and mild but lacks the colour. Book far ahead for October.
Most mountain roads, the Duku, the Ili branch routes and Pamir access, close from late October to early June under snow. Plan around the warm window. For the detail you will actually need on the ground, see our Hemu village guide.
Practical tips
- Reserve Kanas and Hemu stays weeks ahead in October.
- Nights drop near freezing in autumn; pack warm layers.
- Inner scenic areas use shuttles; you cannot always drive freely.
- Never let the tank drop below half on remote roads. Fuel stations thin out sharply once you leave the main G30 corridor, and a few only take cash or UnionPay.
- Carry your passport or Chinese ID at all times. Police checkpoints are routine on regional roads and you will be asked to scan or show documents several times a day. Before you commit, read our best time for a Xinjiang road trip so nothing catches you out.
FAQ
When are the Kanas autumn colours best? Usually late September to mid-October, but the exact window shifts with the weather each year.
Can I drive inside Kanas scenic area? Private cars are usually parked at the gate and you ride the park shuttle inside.
Is the Altai loop too far for 5 days? It is a long drive each way, but the 5-day shape works if you accept two full highway days.
Do I need a border permit? Kanas is not a border area, so a standard permit is not required; carry ID for checkpoints.
Final word
Xinjiang rewards drivers who plan, then stay flexible. Build a loose route, book the key overnight towns, and leave room for the unplanned stop that turns out to be the best part of the trip.
Written by Karl Huang, a Xinjiang-based travel writer. Kanas entry, shuttle and lodging rules change by season and year, so confirm the current setup with the park before you go.