I arrived at the Gaochang Ruins in the late afternoon, and the first thing I noticed was the scale. Where Jiaohe is a narrow carved mesa, Gaochang is a vast walled square thrown across the open desert south of Turpan, its broken ramparts running to the horizon. The Gaochang Ruins (高昌故城) were once the capital of a powerful Silk Road kingdom — bigger and more worldly than Jiaohe, and today more weathered, a place where you piece the city together from foundations and imagination.
If Jiaohe is the intact jewel, Gaochang is the epic one. Pair them and you get the full story of ancient Turpan.
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The history in brief
Gaochang’s roots go back to the 1st century BC as a Han dynasty garrison town, and it grew into the capital of the Gaochang Kingdom, a Buddhist stronghold that traded with India, Persia, and China for centuries. It later fell under the Qu family rulers, then the Tang, then the Uyghur Qocho kingdom, before being abandoned around the 15th century as trade routes shifted and conflict emptied it. Monks like Xuanzang (the famous Tang pilgrim) are said to have preached here, which tells you how important it was.
Unlike Jiaohe, Gaochang was built up rather than carved down — a massive rectangular city of packed earth with outer, inner, and palace districts, and sprawling Buddhist monastery complexes outside the walls. At its height it may have held tens of thousands of people, a real cosmopolitan capital on the desert edge.
The Uyghur Qocho period
The chapter most travelers miss is Gaochang’s second life as the capital of the Uyghur Qocho kingdom (roughly 9th–13th centuries). When the Uyghurs migrated west after the fall of their steppe empire, they made Gaochang their seat and blended a Turkic-Mongol court with the deep Buddhist culture already rooted here. This is the era that produced the close cultural cousin of the Bezeklik murals, and it explains why Gaochang feels less “Chinese garrison” and more “Silk Road crossroads.” The conversion to Islam after the 13th century, followed by war and the drying of trade, is what emptied the city for good.
The walls and watchtowers
The outer rampart is the headline. It forms a rough rectangle about 5 km around, with massive earthen walls still standing in places to several meters and buttressed by square watchtower bases at intervals. Walk a stretch of the southern wall and you can still read the construction method: layers of tamped earth (夯土) compacted in narrow bands, the same technique that holds up sections of the Great Wall. The corners and gates are where the wall thickens, and from the top of a surviving section you see how the inner and palace cities were nested one inside the other — a clear expression of how a Silk Road capital organized power and people.
How to get there
Gaochang is the farthest of the major Turpan ruins from the city, which is why timing and transport matter.
- From Turpan city: about 45 km southeast, a 45–60 minute drive, usually via the G30 or the older southern road past the Flaming Mountains.
- From Urumqi: roughly 200 km, about 3 hours on the G30, almost always as an overnight-in-Turpan trip.
- By taxi or driver: a private car or driver for the day is the most flexible option, letting you thread Gaochang, the Flaming Mountains, and Bezeklik into one loop.
There is a large parking lot and a visitor center; a shuttle runs from the gate into the site because the ruins are spread out.
The layout you will walk
The site is large — roughly 5 km around the outer wall — so most visitors use the internal shuttle or a bike, or focus on the highlights:
- The outer city: enormous earthen ramparts with watchtower bases still visible. Walk a section to feel the circumference.
- The inner city: central administrative and residential blocks, with streets you can trace on the ground.
- The palace city (north): the former royal quarter, now low foundations but clearly planned.
- The Buddhist monastery district (southwest, outside the inner wall): large temple platforms and a giant stupa base — the most photogenic and evocative area, where the scale of devotion is obvious.
Budget 2 to 3 hours if you want to see more than the entrance highlights. The ground is flat but shadeless.
Tickets and access
Entry is typically around ¥70 in recent seasons (confirm at the gate), often including the internal shuttle, and you will need ID or passport for the scan. The visitor center has basic toilets and a small refreshment stand; there is nothing inside the ruins themselves, so fill water bottles before you enter. The site is fenced along the main paths to protect the earth, but off-path wandering is not permitted.
Best light and photography
Like all Turpan sites, dawn and late afternoon are best. The low sun lights the ramparts and the giant stupa base dramatically, and the Turpan Flaming Mountains guide to the north glow behind the ruins. Midday is punishing in summer (Turpan regularly exceeds 40°C) and flat for photos. I shot the southwest monastery at around 18:30 and the warm light on the broken walls was unforgettable.
For lenses: a wide-angle captures the rampart scale and emptiness; a telephoto isolates the stupa base and the texture of the eroded brick. Drones are restricted — check with the gate, as rules tighten seasonally.
What to bring
Gaochang is exposed desert with no shade inside the walls:
- At least one liter of water per person, more in summer.
- A sun hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen.
- Closed, sturdy shoes — the surface is rough, uneven earth.
- A light scarf or buff; the wind can kick up dust off the open plain.
Gaochang vs Jiaohe
Travelers often ask which to prioritize. My honest take: see both, on the same day if possible. Jiaohe is more “complete” and atmospheric; Gaochang is bigger, older-feeling in its sprawl, and better for a sense of a real capital’s footprint. The Jiaohe Ruins guide covers the carved city; Gaochang gives you the desert empire. Together they are the Turpan history day.
Combining with a Turpan loop
A natural full day:
- Morning: Jiaohe at cool dawn light.
- Midday: Karez Wells of Turpan guide in the shade to learn the water system.
- Afternoon: Gaochang, arriving as the light turns golden.
- Evening: Flaming Mountains viewpoint or Grape Valley to close.
Because Gaochang is on the south road, it also fits a drive toward Toksun or the desert highway if you are heading that way.
Seasonal variation
- Spring (Mar–May): mild and quiet — ideal walking.
- Summer (Jun–Aug): extreme heat; only dawn or dusk works. Go late.
- Autumn (Sep–Oct): the best season — comfortable, clear, beautiful light.
- Winter (Nov–Feb): cold and stark; few visitors, haunting atmosphere.
Practical tips
- Bring water and a sun hat; shade is essentially none.
- The internal shuttle or a rental bike saves your legs across the 5 km circuit.
- Stay on marked paths; the earth walls are fragile and off-limits to climb.
- A wide lens captures the rampart scale; a zoom isolates the stupa base.
- Wear closed, sturdy shoes — the desert surface is rough and uneven.
FAQ
How far are the Gaochang Ruins from Turpan? About 45 km southeast, a 45–60 minute drive, usually combined with the Flaming Mountains and the southern desert road.
What is the ticket price? Around ¥70 in recent seasons, often including the internal shuttle; confirm at the visitor center as prices shift.
Should I see Gaochang or Jiaohe? Both. Jiaohe is more intact; Gaochang is larger and more ruined but gives a true capital’s scale. They complement each other.
Can I walk the whole site? It is roughly 5 km around the outer wall, so most use the shuttle or a bike and focus on the monastery and palace areas. Walking the highlights is very doable.
When is the best light? Dawn or late afternoon; avoid midday summer heat. The southwest monastery at golden hour is the standout shot.
How long should I spend? Plan 2–3 hours for a proper look, more if you want to cover the full circuit on foot or bike.
Final word
Gaochang is the desert’s memory of a great city — silent, enormous, and easy to underestimate until you stand inside the walls. Give it the late light it deserves, and the Silk Road opens up around you.
Written by Karl Huang, a Xinjiang-based travel writer. Entry fees, shuttle availability and opening hours at Gaochang change by season — confirm the current details with the local visitor center before you travel.